part 3 – Iceland continued.
Group tours aren’t for everyone. You can’t choose your travelling companions and there’s a lot of getting on and off buses and observing departure times. However, having quite enjoyed 50 degrees north small group tour of Norway in 2025, I was keen to have an Intrepid expedition experience of Iceland. First impressions can be misleading – whatever mine were at the conclusion of day 1 , they certainly for the most part had changed by day 8.
I mentioned Heidrun, who multi-tasked as Tour Guide, Tour Leader and Bus driver. A lot. Some of us were a little non plussed by her tendency to do things on her phone as she drove. Very fast. There were deadlines to meet but sometimes I wondered if the suspension on the bus was up to the speed with which we bounced over the not so good roads. She bombarded us with information – geology, history, geography, even Icelandic ghost stories .
We were also warned about the shady aspect of a crowded tourist destination. Hordes of Romanians infiltrating the popular and therefore busier attractions. These ‘pickpocketers’ are very well organised – often enlisting the gypsy travellers to join them.
She was clearly not a fan of people who choose to travel around Iceland on their own – citing many examples of fool hardy visitors who come to grief because they were either ill prepared or didn’t listen. At Reynisfjara beach with its stark back sands and bizarre, rectangular rock formations ,we are warned to never take the seemingly benign waves for granted. There’s a sad a story of a family of German holiday makers. Apparently, the father decided to ignore advice and took his family across the rocks to a beach without a buffer against the waves. His daughter , a strong, cold water swimmer was swept off and into the ocean. Her body was retrieved but by all accounts many hapless travellers meeting the same fate are not. The beautiful smooth round black beach stones exemplify the force of the ocean. These were, of course, originally lava fragments and would have been anything but smooth when first they became part of the ocean floor. Another anecdote from Heidrun – a body retrieved from the ocean was discovered to have pockets full of these stones – an example of the powerful ocean and its constant tumbling movement.
Those first two days were absolute standouts – our senses packed to the rafters with the majesty of Mother Nature . Just when we didn’t think we could be anymore amazed, we start Day 2/3 with the Seljalandsfoss waterfall, followed by Skogafoss waterfall. At 25-metres wide with a 60-metre drop, this waterfall roars. And this creates the most amazing waterfall rainbow. The sun shone on a picture perfect day.
We certainly covered some territory in a short space of time – managing visits to all three National Parks in Iceland . It was a fascinating glimpse into the post ice age when we pulled up at Snaefellsjokull- a compact mix of coastline, lava fields, and a glacier-capped mountain range on the horizon.
The best was yet to come – not on the official itinerary but we found the puffins ! Most, if not all of us could have spent all day marvelling at their antics but we were reminded that this was an add on extra. We all rather hoped another unscheduled puffin stop could be added but that was unfortunately not to be. At the Reynisfjara Beach stop there were also puffins congregating but high above us and covering the ocean close to the shore with their frantically beating wings.
Moving on to the last scheduled stop of the day and the Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon. Icebergs everywhere – all shapes and sizes – many washed onto the black beach sand. Such a cool (pardon the pun) contrast – the black sand and whiter than white icebergs .
We were certainly given copious quantities of information. My age probably impacts on my capacity to remember everything. Heidrun had asked if we would like to participate in an extra activity -a walk on the mottled blue, grey and black face of one of the tongues of Europe’s largest glaciers, the epic ice cap of Vatnajokull.
Having walked on a New Zealand Glacier over 20 years ago , I was wary of my limitations. Especially when a wild looking mountain man of a guide greeted us with “ If you had trouble getting into the car (I did) you will have trouble with the rocks and steps.”
It was a bit late to bail out so I gritted my teeth and resolved to not make a complete fool of myself. After about 40 minutes bouncing along in a rather uncomfortable but purpose build conveyance , we came to a halt and our man of few words guide Parvon (Czech – with a name I am not sure of ) hauled out spikes for or shoes and a harness – the purpose of which became clearer as we made our way up the glacier.
Parvon was filling me with confidence when he commanded us to not take selfies or be distracted by anything other than looking where we were going . He informed us that the glacier changes every day and if we did not follow him exactly we could be in danger of falling down a fissure.
Doing as he commanded we made our way to a couple of points of interest both of which I politely declined to get closer to.
As it turned out , he became more convivial as the hike progressed. Even to the point of volunteering to go with me on the scary thing where we attached to a rope and looking down into an abyss . Not enough to convince me though!
Dinner that night was well received! And a good night’s sleep needed. Our accomodation below!
