Iceland part 5 – the end
AKUREYRI / SNAEFELLSNES PENINSULA
The weather really stepped in and played its hand for our last 2 days. We departed Akureyri relatively early on that last but one day. A quick check in at the Botanical Gardens , then it was pretty much a day on the road . With the rain.
After our fun at the lagoon the afternoon before, it was a little disappointing that time couldn’t be found for a quick detour back there to retrieve Miki’s special water bottle . As it happened we spent most of the day on the bus. There seemed to be a lot of time spent driving – and the with the weather being somewhat damp we arrived quite early . Our final destination before Reykjavík and a farm stay of sorts where there were droves of Icelandic ponies
Had the weather not been quite so miserable, I may have hopped on a pony for a trot along the beach. I have done enough riding in the rain in my time to rule that out !
Still it was interesting to check out the barn and chat to a girl who was Austrian and working presumably on some sort of holiday visa basis .
As we made our way along roads good and bad, I was constantly intrigued by the sheer numbers of Icelandic horses – a google search suggests at least 80,000 +harking back to a time around 1000 AD when the Vikings imported the now iconic breed to the island . They needed these resilient, strong little people to carry the warriors and goodness knows what else over Iceland’s forbidding and treacherous terrain.
Today, no other breed of horse is permitted to set foot on Iceland and if native ponies are transported elsewhere, they cannot return. Apparently , at some point in the past, horses of different breeds did infiltrate the indigenous population and huge numbers contracted a fatal disease. So what are these adorable equines used for today ?
The better stock are educated to saddle – there are hundreds of horse riding holidays all over Iceland and as we drove, I would have seen more horses than sheep ! They have a long lifespan according to my Austrian informant – up to 40 . Many mares do not start breeding until well in their teens.
The not so desirable often run in herds high in the farmland and are bred specifically for human consumption . Again , this practice goes back to Viking times. In fact, it is only relatively recently that Icelanders began eating chicken and pork. Cultural norms are just that – cultural. What is abhorrent to some is perfectly normal to others. I did do a bit of research – the slaughtering is governed by very strict rules and regulations. Abattoirs are frequently inspected to make sure best practice is followed.
Repugnant though this practice may be to horse lovers, I did not see any horses looking neglected or light in condition. Our last night stop has over 100 riding horses all of which are shod and cared for . I met a couple of their breeding stallions – gorgeous .
That final night saw us billeted in a couple of cabins . We handed over more Kroner to the local Vinbuden (wine shop) and armed with supplies settled in for a bit of a girl’s in cabin night out. Miki and Laurie were with the boys but Jade, Trina, Kirsty and I shared stories as we polished off our wine and the remaining snacks from the bus.
Dinner was delicious – the home cooking was fortunately not horse .
I would not usually mention the weather again but the next morning it was front and centre . The Icelandic Vindur had arrived . Whistling and roaring – everything shaking .
I absolutely hate wind . In Iceland there are many words for it – this may have been a gentle breeze by their standards but it was enough to keep me on the bus . The weather alert has colour coded warnings and whilst we were not actually in danger , the force of the wind could be felt as we made our way back towards Reykjavik . Over the trip, Heidrun had recounted tales of hapless travellers coming to grief by ignoring the warnings.
One final stop that was fortunately protected from the wind , was at a pebble beach with an unpronounceable name. Again amazing lava now rock formations but we came across this little guy who must have not long exited the nest.
Emmanuel identified him as a juvenile Black Guillemot, a close relative to a puffin. When first spotted, we were somewhat concerned that he might be injured. That worry soon dispersed – he must have not long left his nest -by the time we left , he took to the skies and headed to the ocean.
So it was back to our hotel in Reykjavik, and to disperse. Emmanuel had set off whale watching , Miki to a museum . Many were staying on for a few days – taking in the Pride Festival . I will share some of Kirsty’s amazing whale pics to round out my last thoughts from Iceland.
I mentioned early on that group tours may not be for everyone , but in an environment such as this , I would 100% recommend it. Heidrun , though a little pushy at times, was most knowledgeable , approachable, and understanding. As a small Intrepid group, we all got on really well . I was the oldest by far but really enjoyed the company of everyone. We will no doubt continue to keep in touch through our WhatsApp group.
And as for Iceland – if you love amazing scenery especially waterfalls, puffins and icebergs, it has to be on your bucket list !
Amazing shots – thanks for sharing Kirsty
